Setsubun (節分) – The End of Winter in Japan: Between Purification Rituals and Gourmet Traditions

Every year, on the eve of the beginning of spring according to the old lunar calendar, Japan celebrates Setsubun (節分). This day, which typically falls on February 3, marks the boundary between winter and spring (risshun). While its name literally means “seasonal division,” Setsubun is above all a festival of purification, a time when one drives out demons and misfortunes of the past year to welcome the new season with a pure heart. But this celebration, steeped in ancient rituals, is also a gourmet festival, where food plays a central role. From mamemaki (bean throwing) to eho-maki (large sushi rolls), each dish is laden with symbols and wishes for health, prosperity, and good fortune.

The Origin and Meaning of Setsubun

Setsubun has its roots in a Chinese ritual imported to Japan during the Heian period (794-1185): tsuina, or “demon expulsion ceremony.” At the imperial court, rites were performed to ward off evil spirits, which were believed to proliferate during the transition from one season to another. This custom gradually spread throughout the country and, by the Edo period (1603-1868), had become a popular tradition celebrated in homes and shrines.

The heart of Setsubun lies in a simple yet powerful act: mamemaki (豆撒き), or “bean throwing.” Family members, or sometimes the father playing the role of the demon, throw roasted soybeans (fuku-mame) out the door or window, or at someone dressed as an oni (demon), shouting: Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi! (“Out with the demons! In with good fortune!”). This ritual aims to purify the home and invite luck for the coming year. After the throwing, one consumes as many beans as one’s age (or one more for the new year) to ensure health and prosperity.

The Central Role of Soybeans

Roasted soybeans, or iri-mame, are the emblematic ingredient of Setsubun. Beyond the throwing ritual, they hold an important place in the gastronomy of this festival.

Fuku-mame (福豆) – Lucky Beans

The beans used for mamemaki are called fuku-mame, literally “lucky beans.” Traditionally, roasted soybeans are used and kept in a small container or decorative bowl. After the ritual, the consumption of these beans follows a strict code: one eats the number of beans corresponding to one’s age (or that number plus one, for the new year), silently making a wish for health. This custom, called toshi-iotori (年取り), is believed to protect against illness in the year ahead.

Eho-maki (恵方巻) – Lucky Direction Rolls

While beans represent the oldest tradition, eho-maki (恵方巻) has become, over recent decades, one of the most popular and widely publicized dishes of Setsubun. It is a large, uncut sushi roll (futomaki) composed of seven ingredients – an auspicious number – symbolizing the seven deities of good fortune (shichifukujin). Its consumption follows a precise ritual.

The eho-maki must be eaten in silence, facing the eho (恵方), the direction considered favorable for the year. This direction varies each year according to the Chinese astrological calendar. In 2026, the eho is south-southwest. The roll is eaten in one go, without interruption, while making a wish. It should not be cut, so as not to “sever” one’s luck. Although the tradition of eho-maki is relatively recent – it was popularized by merchants in Osaka in the 1990s before spreading across the country – it has established itself as an essential part of the festival.

The Symbolic Ingredients of Eho-maki

The eho-maki traditionally contains seven ingredients, each carrying a specific meaning:

• Cucumber: for longevity;
• Tamagoyaki (rolled omelette) : for academic success;
• Crab or shrimp: for longevity (the curved shape evokes an elderly person);
• Kanpyō (dried gourd strips) : for prosperity;
• Shiitake mushroom: for health;
• Eel or grilled fish: for perseverance;
• Denbu (pink fish powder) : for joy and elegance.

These ingredients, wrapped in a sheet of nori seaweed, embody wishes for happiness, health, and success in the coming year.

Other Culinary Specialties of Setsubun

Beyond beans and sushi rolls, other dishes enrich the Setsubun table.

Iwashi (鰯) – The Protective Sardine

The fish most associated with Setsubun is the sardine (iwashi). According to tradition, grilled sardine heads are skewered on holly branches (hiragi) and hung at doorways. The strong smell of grilled sardine was believed to repel demons, while the thorns of the holly served to pierce their eyes. Today, grilled sardines are more commonly eaten at the meal, often accompanied by grated daikon radish. This simple, flavorful dish reinforces protection against harmful influences.

Fuku-iri (福入り) – Lucky Bean Sachets

In some regions, small bean sachets called fuku-iri are prepared and given to guests or placed in rooms of the house. These sachets, often beautifully decorated, contain a few roasted beans and sometimes a small lucky charm. They extend the mamemaki ritual by inviting good fortune to remain in the home throughout the year.

Setsubun Today: Between Tradition and Modernity

Today, Setsubun remains a festival deeply rooted in Japanese culture. At shrines and temples, public ceremonies attract huge crowds, where celebrities or local figures are invited to throw beans to the public. Supermarkets and konbini (convenience stores) offer an abundance of eho-maki in various interpretations, from traditional versions to more contemporary creations featuring Western ingredients.

Families continue the mamemaki at home, sometimes turning the ritual into a game where children dress up as demons. While some traditions evolve, the essence remains: driving out evil, attracting good fortune, and sharing a meal rich in symbolism.

Conclusion

Setsubun is far more than just a festival marking the end of winter. It is a moment of transition when all of Japan purifies itself, looks toward the future, and celebrates renewal. From the ritual throwing of soybeans to the silent bites of an eho-maki eaten facing south-southwest, every culinary gesture is a quiet prayer. The grilled sardine that repels demons, the lucky bean consumed according to one’s age, the sacred roll of seven treasures – all these foods tell a story of protection, health, and hope. On February 3, whether with family or friends, Japan casts the demons out of the home and welcomes, with gusto and gratitude, the approaching spring.